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Rock Climbing in Caithness

As little as ten years ago the amount of recorded rock climbing in Caithness was very limited. In particular the East coast was unexplored.

During the nineties several areas were developed until at this point there are in excess of three hundred named routes. Most of these routes have been published in the SMC guide to the Northern Highlands vol. 2 which will be available in climbing shops in Inverness.

Although there are seemingly endless miles of cliffs to choose from, there are in fact a relatively small number of areas suitable for climbing. These have to be bird free, have a ledge at the bottom and be made up of dry sound rock.

The vast majority of Caithness sea cliffs are of more interest to the ornithologist and botanist than the rock climber. This being said, the few places which are suitable offer crag climbing to compare with anywhere in the North of Scotland.

It is a sad fact that while climbing at Latheronwheel or Mid Clyth you are more likely to meet climbers from outside the county than locals. It seems that while the rest of Britain has experienced a surge in interest in climbing, Caithness has yet to wake up to the sport.

The areas with accessible climbing are at the following sites:

Rock Climbing in Caithness

The most frequently visited areas are at Latheronwheel and Mid Clyth.

Each of the other areas listed have something different and special.

  • Sarclet: has a convoluted system of bays and pillars sculpted from bright pink conglomerate which is surprisingly sound.
  • Occumster: is centred around an impressive castellated buttress.
  • Noss: is a curious collection of oddly shaped short routes, the best of which are geometric puzzles to be solved.
  • Auckengill : is a lovely spot to pass an afternoon only a few yards from the main road half a mile South of the harbour.
  • Skirza: has a couple of two pitch routes at Wife Geo and some challenging problems at Salt skerry.

Due to the recent development of the climbing areas in Caithness it is still possible for new routes low in the grades to be recorded by someone prepared to explore a little. Climbing in Caithness should be an attraction like the world class surf in Thurso which could be an asset to the county and should be attracting visitors all summer. Caithness rock should not be a secret.

Map references:

You may also be interested in -

  • Mid Clyth

    About 500m South of the lighthouse, access is only by abseil. The aspect here is more windswept and exposed. The large skerries just offshore are often packed with the corpulent bodies of a large family group of grey seals.

  • Latheronwheel

    A few hundred metres South of the harbour, this is the spot which is visited first in spring. The cliffs dry quickly after rain and there is a general sheltered aspect. The grades range from low grade scrambles to currently the hardest route in the county Flight from Sadness at E3 5c.

    Other routes of note are:

    • The other landscape: HVS 5a
  • Dunbeath and Lybster Area

    Dunbeath and Latheron, Latheronwheel
    Telephone Code (+44) 1593 from outwith Britain
    From within Britain 01593

    The village of Dunbeath is on the main A9 coast road, between Helmsdale and Lybster

    .

  • Caithness Mountaineering and Ski Club (C.M.S.C.)

    Monthly meetings are held all over Scotland, catering for outdoor pursuits. The only club North of Inverness. The CMSC is not just a mountaineering club. Members do many activities at our meets; hillwalking, rock climbing, mountain biking, cross country skiing, ski mountaineering. There are opportunities for all abilities and interests. Meet every Thursday in the St. Clair Hotel, Thurso.

  • Holborn Head - Clett Rock

    Holborn Head Clett Rock, a solitary sea rock aout 30m high made of Caithness old red sandstone and away from the mainland by a 15m wide channel.

  • Holborn Head, Thurso, Caithness

    Series of gullies and caves on the Eastern side of the head. The shape of the bay causes the tide to nearly always run North, right into a patch of standing waves just off the head.

  • Clett Rock, Caithness

    A solitary sea stack, interesting topography causes the sea to run uphill, honest guvnor! Sheer cliffs plunge on through the waterline to level off at 20 m depth, nice big, short cave in the cliff. Launch at Scrabster. Heading out of Scrabster for Ushat Head the cliffs are spectacular. Stacks, caves, cuts and overhanging horizontal ledges. Seabirds everywhere.